An osprey soars high above us. Higher still, Ben Nevis towers over the point where the ocean meets Scotland’s best-known canal.
“I couldn’t choose between an ocean and an inland cruise, but I think I just discovered the best of both worlds in Scotland,” says Australian passenger Susan Katnic, a glass of bubbly in hand.
We are on the 38-passenger Lord of the Highlands, sailing from saltwater Loch Linnhe through a sweep of canal locks towards the freshwater of Loch Lochy. With one crew member for every two passengers, a fine dining restaurant, excursions and a range of whisky included in the fare, it feels more like a Highland country house party than a cruise.
Like Katnic, many cruise travellers are torn between an ocean adventure, or sailing on inland waterways. The owners of the Hebridean Princess – the stately small ship the late Queen chartered twice – saw a gap in the market and steered this converted Turkish ferry to Scotland in 2021, after a major refit.
It’s one of two ships on which there are regular departures that combine the Hebrides with the Caledonian Canal (the other is the Lord of the Glens). My cruise includes passengers from Britain, Ireland, the US and Australia, with most aged 50 or over.
Visit once, and it’s easy to see why you would want to cruise Scotland’s wildly beautiful west coast. I’ve taken a cruise holiday here more than 50 times. Having sailed on all the world’s oceans, I’ve not found anywhere more life-affirming.
As we ease out of Oban – one of the great scenic cruise departures – the Hebrides are dotted all around, a pod of dolphins joins us, and the hulk of Ben Nevis dominates the background.
The Lord of the Highlands is also unusual among Scottish sailings in that guests don’t suffer uncomfortable, and weather-dependent, tender rides to shore. It docks in ports, rather than anchoring offshore. We spend two nights docked in the Isle of Mull with days exploring the pastel-hued waterfront of Tobermory and Castle Duart, where we meet the clan chief over cake in the café.
The Hebridean highlight is undoubtedly Iona: an island of white beaches and superb walks that is also deeply spiritual as it is synonymous with St Columba, who converted Scotland to Christianity.
Wildlife is another wonder of the region. I spot eagles (both golden and white-tailed) and red deer on Mull. But it’s on the water that the real action pulses. Dolphins and porpoises are regulars, with whales common, too. While onboard, we see minkes, humpbacks and killer whales. Seabirds cloak the skies, including puffins and death-defying diving gannets.
All too soon, a moment of knot in the stomach sadness arrives when we turn back towards Oban, which usually signals the end of a Hebrides cruise. On the Lord of the Highlands, though, the holiday is far from over. We slip past Oban and up Loch Linnhe towards Thomas Telford’s epic 200-year-old, 60-mile long Caledonian Canal.
Telford forged 29 locks to create this engineering marvel, and we stop traffic as the ship passes through its 10 swing bridges.
The Lord of the Highlands is the largest vessel to navigate the canal. “We only clear the lock walls by inches,” says captain Jim Wright. The ship’s height also offers clear views of the fjord-like lochs and surrounding peaks.
“It’s like watching a highlights reel of Highland scenery,” says fellow passenger and Scot Stewart Norton as we ramble around Urquhart Castle – which is said to have inspired Disney’s Brave.
“There are mountains, thick forests, wildflowers and wee places like Fort Augustus to wander around. It’s a delight, even as someone who knows the area well.”
We dine onboard at the Caledonian Restaurant, which serves Scotch beef, salmon and cheese, washed down with wine, and spiced with haggis for the gala dinner – a chance to dress up on an otherwise informal cruise.
The spacious lounge is the social hub, helped by the generous selection of drams and cocktails. A guitarist coaxes us on to a makeshift dancefloor one night, while Highland dancers from a Fort William school brighten another evening as a rainbow appears across Ben Nevis.
Soon we reach our finale: Loch Ness. Flanked by mountains and forest, it takes us hours to cross.
Katnic has moved on to a local dram as the loch fades in the gloaming. “I’m so glad I didn’t go on an ocean cruise or an inland cruise. This is the best of both”.
Booking it
The Lord of the Highlands has sailings that combine the Hebrides with the Caledonian Canal, such as the six-night “Caledonian Temptations” itinerary. From £4,400pp, departing 14 April, 2027, including gratuities, excluding some premium drinks. hebridean.co.uk/lord-of-the-highlands
